Why does my skirt spin when I walk? Why does the skirt ride up? The slot or cut diverges towards the bottom

Have you ever wondered why the most problems arise with the purchase of so-called universal basic things? A pencil skirt, which, according to many stylists, should “shape” the figure and be combined with different elements of the top, often creates so many difficulties that it is easier to refuse to purchase it than to waste time on endless fittings and fitting.
Models will tell you what the fit of straight skirts depends on and how to learn to choose the ones that suit your hip shape. stylist Polina Vakhitova .

Polina Vakhitova: Let me make a reservation right away: I am not a doctor and all observations about body structures interest me solely from a stylistic point of view. Obstetricians, for example, have their own pelvic shapes, and forensic doctors. Experts are interested in how to determine the sex of the pelvis. And I write about the shape of the pelvis, so that this pelvis can be beautifully dressed in a suitable skirt.

It's about... the pelvis!

If we take only the pelvic region, then its shape depends on the relative position of two bones, the iliac crest and the protruding part of the femur, which is called the greater trochanter. These bones may contain more or less muscle and fat, but the location of all this will be subject to the location of the bones.

The relative position of these two bones form 4 types of pelvis: heart (when the trochanter is located low and far to the side of the most protruding part of the iliac crest), circle (when the trochanter is located high and to the side), square (when the trochanter is located almost under the iliac crest) and triangle ( when the trochanter is located closer to the center relative to the outer edge of the ridge).

And here are photos of real pops from the website of a plastic surgery clinic.

But I tried to find among the models different shapes of the pelvis in a slender form.

The pelvis Heart and Circle have a low hip (the greater trochanter protrudes strongly to the side), and the Square and Triangle have a high hip (the trochanter is hidden under the pelvic bones and this makes it seem like the leg starts from the ilium). High-hip figures have a shape more similar to the male pelvis.

The actual shape of the legs depends on how much the greater trochanter protrudes to the side. No matter how much weight girls with low hips lose, their hips will still taper towards their knees. And girls with high hips can pump up their muscles as much as they want, but they won’t get a smooth lateral line of the pelvis. But both of them, with equal success, can pump up the gluteal muscles themselves, which will stick out beautifully back and not affect the perception of the shape of the pelvis from the front side.

According to my subjective observations, the rarest pelvis shape is a triangle; it is found in Apple and Rectangle body types. It is followed by a circle shape, characteristic of the Pear and Hourglass. The heart shape is also more common in Pear and Hourglass, but the square pelvis is the most common and can be found in all 5 body types.

Choosing a skirt

We have decided on the shape of our pelvis and now we need to buy or sew the perfect cover for it - a skirt. There are very, very many models of skirts, but here I want to discuss just one type - the basic straight pencil skirt. Typically, such skirts are worn so that the top edge is slightly above the iliac bones, and the length is, for example, a palm above the knee, as in the photo.

I drew these skirts on all the butts and you can see that on figures with low hips such a skirt looks very massive. The butt looks wide, and the shape of the skirt does not look like a rectangle at all. On figures with high hips, such a skirt looks immediately like home.

If we imagine that this skirt is worn with tight-fitting jersey, then on figures with low hips we will observe an attempt by the T-shirt to slide up to the narrowest part of the waist and expose the stomach. In figures with high hips this will either not be present at all or will be weakly expressed.

Below I have redrawn the skirts so that the butts in them look as aesthetically pleasing as possible. For low-hip figures, I lengthen the hemline, raise the waist, and taper at the bottom. It’s already good for high hips, but I do it even better, shorten it and narrow it just a little for a square pelvis.

It even looks better with T-shirts.

On wide butts with a heart and a circle, to be honest, I really want to add some visual illusions to make the butts visually look slimmer. And on the triangular one, add pockets to make it at least a little wider. In fact, only the square pelvis remained with a pencil skirt, while the rest had skirts of other models.

And this is roughly what basic skirt patterns for different types of basins will look like. For those who have been sewing for a long time or know how to cut according to Zlachevskaya, there will be no surprise here. The picture shows the front halves of the skirts. The difference in the length of the skirt in the center and on the side for figures with a low hip is much greater than for skirts for figures with a high hip; the hip cap itself is of a different shape and the depth of the darts will be different.

To buy the right skirt for your butt, you also need to be guided by the pattern. Typically, straight skirts are sold designed for (and look best on) a square pelvis. And here, owners of a square pelvis can only take into account the convexity of their buttocks, which is quite simply solved by measuring the girth. But ladies with low hips need to choose such skirts more carefully and, most likely, will have to “finish them with a file.”

For example, we found a turquoise skirt in an online store. In the photo where the model is standing at full height in a beautiful pose, the skirt looks good and it seems that it is suitable for a completely round butt. But if you look at the photo from the back, you can see these creases, which indicate that the skirt was cut with a squarer pelvis in mind, and since the model’s pelvis tends to be heart-shaped, these parts on top remain empty and will always form folds and such strange ears. It makes sense to take such a skirt with a pronounced square pelvis. It won’t work with a triangular one either, all these ears will dangle freely, not filled with anything.

Or here’s an example: a young lady with rounded hips wants to find herself a simple basic skirt. And he seems to find a good rounded model, the lines are smooth, the length is suitable, the skirt will sit at the narrowest point of the waist, the fabric is with elastane, which means it will tolerate errors in fit. We look at the measurements, at size 46 the waist is 70-74, and the hips are 98-102. Size 48 has a waist of 74-78, hips of 102-104.

Let's imagine a really steep-hipped young lady who goes to the gym and has already managed to pump up a beautiful bulging gluteal muscle. And this young lady has a waist of 70, and a hip circumference of 105 cm. That is, if you take a skirt in the size of the hips (and this is the limit of 48, or better yet, size 50), then at the waist it will be 4-8 cm too big at size 48 and by 8-12 cm at 50m. Usually ladies in such a situation take the skirt that is pulled tight at the hips and does not bulge more or less at the waist (in our case it would be size 46), and then they wonder why their skirt constantly rises and twists when walking. And this elastic fabric of the skirt contracts, creeps in the direction of least resistance and tends to gather at the waist like an accordion.

In order for such a skirt to fit well and not ride up or twist, it needs to sit a little loose at the hips and tight at the waist. Then, when you step, a small space in the hips + elastic fabric will give comfort to movements, and a tight waistband and a good fit at the top of the thigh will prevent the skirt from moving up and twisting.
In general, our young lady really needs to take a skirt size of 50, go to the tailor and ask her to fit the skirt to her figure at the waist so that when standing, the skirt does not stretch over the hips, but hangs close to the body.

On the other hand, if you buy such a skirt for a square pelvis, then the existing roundness of the skirt will wrinkle with folds on the hip, approximately as I drew.

Let's return to the first skirt and consider another fairly common situation when a girl with a heart-shaped pelvis wants to wear a simple straight skirt and a simple knitted top to look like in the photo. So, if such a skirt is not regularly adjusted on such hips, or even better, held with both hands when walking, then it will end up looking like the picture next to it. The skirt warps, the knitwear wrinkles asymmetrically. What should be done in this case? Either sew this skirt in at the waist (if there is enough width at the hips), or buy a new one.

We have now looked at only one body part and only one skirt model. And this is just a small piece of the puzzle that you need to assemble to choose the perfect skirt. It is also necessary to take into account the convexity and, in general, the very shape of the buttocks, the presence or absence of excess weight, the density and elasticity of the fabric, decorative or structural seams, thanks to which various visual illusions are created, the depth of darts, etc. Then you need to cross this skirt with the rest of the costume details and see what works together in terms of color, texture and style. And every part of the body and every detail of the costume can be disassembled in such detail.

But many people make unforgivable mistakes that ruin your style. Don't do this when wearing a skirt:

1. Proper underwear

Many people wear white underwear under white or colored light skirts. It is not right! White linen is often visible under white clothing. The right choice would be to choose nude-colored underwear. It’s even better if the panties are seamless, so they definitely won’t stand out.

2. Fabric quality

Choose a skirt made of thick, high-quality fabric; it will perfectly hide figure imperfections. It is better to avoid transparent fabrics.

3. Wrong top

The most important rule: the larger the skirt, the more minimalist and simpler the top should be. A mini skirt assumes a maximally closed top - with a neckline and overly seductive tops, it will instantly turn you from a stylish young lady with taste into a girl of easy virtue.

4. Skirt and shoes

The relationship between skirts and heels is based on a very simple rule: the shorter the skirt, the lower the heel; the longer the skirt, the higher the heel.
The starting point will not be the shoes and heel height, but the skirt and its length.

5. Correct length

If you are a tall girl, then the length of the skirt in your wardrobe should be knee-length or slightly higher. But not mini! Such a skirt will only lengthen your already long legs.

6. There’s a different skirt for every occasion.

The dress code requires a strict style skirt, neutral colors. Perfect for: pencil, mini, midi, etc. For informal occasions, the choice of fabric, styles, colors is dizzying)

7. And the most important thing is that, how do you feel in this skirt, if you are comfortable and you understand that you are a real beauty, regardless of the parameters imposed on us and accepted standards. Enjoy life in all its manifestations, and fashion is just one small piece of this mosaic that helps us paint our lives with bright colors.

A pencil skirt is an integral element of a stylish women's wardrobe, which was brought into fashion by Coco Chanel. This feminine and elegant model looks equally luxurious in both evening and everyday looks. With the right combination with the top and accessories, optimal fit to the hips and length, the skirt will make you a queen!

Misconception No. 1. A black pencil skirt, a formal blouse and pumps are a win-win option that is appropriate everywhere

Without a doubt, this is a correct, but very boring image. The skirt, in this case, looks frankly outdated and is combined with completely wrong things.

A completely different matter is a pencil skirt, a contrasting color turtleneck or a blouse of an original complex cut and stiletto heels. The look will be stylish, seductive, but not contrary to the rules of the dress code.

If you are counting wear a “pencil” in everyday life, feel free to combine it with a shirt or T-shirt tied at the stomach and sandals. In this case, the skirt will become a truly significant piece of your wardrobe.

Misconception No. 2. It is better if the pencil skirt is in a neutral tone: gray, beige, black

No, it’s not better, unless, of course, you are over 40 years old and you are not an office employee. Skirts of restrained shades, made from traditional textures, look boring and inexpressive.

Fashionable today “pencils” are made of leather, suede, lace fabric, tweed in a bright Scottish check, with frills or a wrap.

Misconception No. 3. A red pencil skirt + a leopard print blouse is a spectacular, sexy ensemble.

A fundamentally wrong opinion! A red pencil skirt is self-sufficient and does not need additional bright elements. Moreover, the image will turn out to be vulgar even for an evening out, or, as stylists say, toomuch, which translated means “too much, too much.”

A white top looks best with a red skirt, adding femininity and chic to the image: a men's cut shirt, a tight-fitting American top, a chiffon blouse of a romantic cut.

Here's a pencil skirt a noble blue color and a blouse with a predatory pattern will look amazing!

Misconception No. 4. A pencil skirt does not suit overweight women.

This model is universal and suits all women without exception, the main thing is to find your style. A skirt that is too narrow will emphasize the imperfections of your figure - curvy hips and a protruding tummy.

That's why For plus size owners, it is better to opt for a high-waisted product with darts on the hips and complement it with peplum tops, loose-fitting blouses and asymmetrical tunics.

Misconception No. 5. A plain pencil skirt will not suit a fat girl, as monochrome makes her look fat.

In fact, prints, unless they are chosen correctly, are much more fattening. If you choose a product with an ornament, then with a diagonal checkered pattern or a vertical stripe.

Plain skirt current shade, for example, burgundy, rich blue, olive color, provided it is cut correctly, is ideal for a young lady with full hips.

Misconception No. 6. A pencil skirt is ideal for a thin girl - she doesn’t have extra pounds.

It would seem that the statement is correct. However, thin legs and narrow hips will not look very attractive in a tight skirt.

Slender young ladies it is better to choose models with a peplum, drapery, bow and other decorative elements that will add the missing volume to the hips and make the figure feminine.

Misconception No. 7. White pencil skirt + white top is the most stylish combination

Misconception No. 8. A blue blouse goes with a gray skirt

It is unlikely that such a combination can be called successful. Blue is a very complex, multifaceted color, and some of its shades are often used when sewing uniforms of various structures. Gray, especially dark gray, is also an element of the dress code, so by combining these two shades, you risk turning into a flight attendant or a post office employee.

Exceptions are combinations of light gray and pale blue tones, as well as products made from fabric with a metallic tint.

Misconception No. 9. A lace skirt requires a lace top.

A lace pencil skirt is an elegant, trendy item for an evening look. However, lace is very capricious and does not tolerate competition. Combining guipure top and bottom would be a mistake; the look would look cheap. The ideal choice is a top made of thin knitwear or chiffon.

If you are sewing a skirt for the first time, and the figure has features that you did not take into account when creating the basic skirt pattern, for example, a “kinky” back or a rounded belly, then even an accurate pattern does not guarantee a perfect fit of the product. When you try it on for the first time, you will likely notice some slight imperfections in the fit. Such defects can be corrected by following our advice.

In order to have a supply of fabric for adjusting patterns, when cutting a skirt, it is recommended to make seam allowances of 2.5 cm. After eliminating the defect, the allowances must be cut to 1.5 cm and then overcast.

IMPORTANT! A basic pattern does not guarantee a perfect fit of the product if the features of the figure are not taken into account when constructing it.

We invite you to familiarize yourself with the main defects in the fit of skirts and ways to correct them.

Bulging belly

As a result of this defect, horizontal folds and creases occur; the skirt appears narrow at the top.

Rice. 1. Defects in the fit of skirts - bulging belly

How to fix?

On the back panel of the skirt, reduce the dart along the side seam by 1.5-2 cm, add a second waist dart 1.5-2 cm deep, 2 cm shorter than the first. Place both darts symmetrically along the waist cut at a distance of 3-4 cm from each other. Give the darts a slightly curved shape.

On the front half of the skirt, reduce the dart along the side seam by 1.5-2 cm. Place the waist dart in the center of the waist cut of the front panel of the skirt. Increase the tuck opening by 0.75-1 cm in each direction, giving the tuck a slightly curved shape. Raise the cutting line by 0.5 cm.

Lack of volume at the bottom of the skirt

With such a defect, oblique creases appear from the side seams to the center of the skirt.

Rice. 2. Lack of volume at the bottom of the skirt

How to fix?

Make a bias cut from the top of the middle seam of the back half to the middle line of the side seam as shown in the drawing. Spread the panel to the depth of the crease.

Extend the side seam line from the top piece perpendicular to the bottom line of the piece.

Adjust the front panel of the skirt in the same way.

The slot or cut diverges towards the bottom

With such a defect, both sides of the slots or cut diverge in different directions. Such a defect can occur for the following reasons: a violation of the design of the tail cut of the rear panel, a lack of volume at the hips, or both reasons at the same time.

Rice. 3 The slots or cut diverge towards the bottom

How to fix?

Lower the traveling cut of the rear panel by 1-1.5 cm. Increase the width of the rear panel to the required width. If necessary, expand along the side of the front panel.

Asymmetrical position of the product when viewed from the side

With this defect, the skirt fits tightly to the legs in front or behind, the bottom line is not parallel to the floor. The defect occurs due to a violation of the design of the tail cut of the product.

Rice. 4. Asymmetrical position of the product when viewed from the side

How to fix?

To correct the defect in the front fit, lower the waist cut line of the front half of the skirt by 1 cm. Draw a new waist cut line.

To correct a defect in the back fit, lower the waist cut line of the back half of the skirt by 1 cm. Draw a new tail cut line.

Convex hips

With this type of figure, oblique creases appear in the hip area and a lack of volume occurs.

Rice. 5. Convex hips

How to fix?

Both the back and front panels of the skirt need to be adjusted. Draw vertical and horizontal dotted auxiliary lines, cut the pattern along the lines and push them apart to the depth of the creases (usually 1-2 cm is enough). Draw a new side line and waist line.

Flat buttocks, flat hips

With this feature of the figure, horizontal creases appear in the back area below the waist. This occurs as a result of deep waist and side darts.

Rice. 6. Flat butt, flat hips

How to fix?

On the back panel of the skirt, reduce the depth of the waist and side darts. Draw a new line for the side and waist seams.

On the front half of the skirt, adjust only the side seam line, reducing the depth of the side dart.

Creases at the top of the side seams

Such creases can occur due to a too convex side seam in the upper part of the product - from the waist to the hips, creases occur.

Rice. 7. Creases at the top of the side seams

How to fix?

Fixing such a defect is quite simple. Tuck excess fabric into the side seams, adjust the line of the side seam in the hip area.

Convex buttocks

With this feature of the figure, there is a lack of volume in the back panel of the skirt, oblique creases on the back panel, the back half is pulled up, and when viewed from the side, there is a violation of the parallelism of the bottom of the product to the floor.

Rice. 8. Convex buttocks

How to fix?

Draw auxiliary dotted lines on the back panel of the skirt. Horizontal dotted line - along the hip line; location of the vertical dotted line: divide the distance between the right side of the waist dart and the side line (along the waist line) in half and draw a dotted line down to the hip line. Cut the part along the marked lines, spread it to the missing length (usually 1.5-2 cm is enough). Draw the side line and waist line of the back half of the skirt.

Transfer the excess volume at the waist to the second dart, position both darts symmetrically along the waist cut at a distance of 3-4 cm from each other.

Excess volume at side seams

As a result of this defect, the skirt appears wide and vertical folds appear. The defect occurs when there is too much increase in the freedom of fit in the process of calculating the basic pattern.

Rice. 9. Excess volume at the side seams

How to fix?

Remove excess volume into the side seams. Trim off excess seam allowances and overcast seam allowances.

Sew beautiful things and wear them with pleasure!